Friday, October 29, 2010

Kentucky Derby Week


For just over two minutes on the first Saturday of May, the horseracing world holds its breath as the finest thoroughbreds in the world circle Churchill Downs to determine the winner of the first race of the Triple Crown, the Kentucky Derby.

Few people will ever know the thrill of owning or riding a thoroughbred in the crowned jewel event of horse racing, the Kentucky Derby, but covering the event for Reuters allowed me to  go where few have gone before.

I met the breeders, the trainers, the jockeys, the rich and famous owners, and the colorful fans as we follow the events from a series of exclusive parties held on fabled plantations to nostalgic steamboat races on the Ohio River.

And no Kentucky Derby is complete without mint juleps.  Over 80,000 mint juleps are served during Kentucky Derby Festival Week requiring 8,000 quarts of Julep mix, 150 Bushels of mint and 60 tons of snow ice.

The copious consumption of the sweet green juleps may explain such event as Bedlam In The Streets – an all out bed race down main street – and the Hat Parade where celebrants try to outdo each other with the most outlandish hats under the sun.

On race day, I discovered one of the best vantage spots to view the Derby - Trackside Village.  It’s a two-story venue set on the first right turn of the track where for just $3,350, a group of ten spectators can rub elbows with movie stars, politicians and corporate titans.

For those on a budget, the Churchill Downs infield offers another alternative to enjoy the race.  Since the first running of the Kentucky Derby in 1875, the 40-acre Churchill Downs infield has been a gathering place to exercise the first rite of spring.

Part Woodstock, part family reunion, the infield at Churchill Downs attracts 80,000 revelers each year for two days of festivities.  After a few hours of celebrating it began to look like the crowd no longer cared about the race or anything else except where to find another Julep, bottle of Jack or a beer. 

No matter where you end up, you’ll see why the Kentucky Derby is considered the best two-minutes in sports.

Californian's and Their Cars


California has been called the "Car Capitol" of the world.  Not because any cars are made here, but because people love their cars and drive them in droves.  Some think we are defined by our cars or our wheels.   That we sort of wear our cars here like someone would wear an expensive overcoat in New York.  Our cars are a way of showing the world who we are.
Californians have been nuts about cars right from the start of the motoring age.
No one knows what the first car in California was but it's clear some couldn't wait to have their auto itch scratched by an import from back east.  So they built their own.  A tradition of tinkering that's lasted until today.
These early cars were rather crude.  Mostly converted buggies or carriages.  The horses were put out to pasture, an engine was installed and some sort of steering device.  One early LA car used the wheel from an irrigation pump.  Innovation was the key.
While there were a few poor backyard builders, most early auto enthusiasts were rich.  Cars were expensive and they weren't being mass produced.  Cars were not really a practical means of transportation but more a device for adventure.
Bad roads, and finnicky engineering meant that any drive was an adventure.  Auto owners doubled as mechanics.
Someone who could fix the inevitable flat tires that would occur on an outing.
Henry Ford set out to make cars for the masses.   In the process he shaped our state.  It's said that Ford got the idea for the moving assembly line while watching how cattle were slaughtered and progressively dismembered in the stockyards in Chicago.  His breakthrough was to reverse the process and apply it to auto assembly.  Instead of packages of neatly wrapped parts of prime meats his factory took metal parts and turned them into Model T's.  By 1913, his Highland Park, Michigan plant was turning out a car every few minutes.

And Californians were being led to his dealerships by the siren call of the open road.  The commoners were discovering what the rich saw in the car.  Within a days drive you could take the family to the mountains, the beach, the desert or find a secluded spot to court a girl.  The world was shrinking and opening up at the same time. 
Bad roads made driving a problem but civic leaders formed groups like the California Auto Club to lobby for ways to bring order out of the chaos.  Roads were paved, traffic lights were invented, stripes painted on the roads and rules drawn up to regulate the impulses of harried drivers.
Roads improved in the cities but getting from one city to the next was still a difficult matter.  In 1911, a prize was offered to anyone who could drive from San Francisco to Reno, Nevada.  There were many attempts but finally one team made it.  It only took them eight days to make what is now a four to six hour trip.  Demonstrations like these and the efforts of others prodded the state to build and improve roads.
At the same time, another new invention, the movies, discovered the car.   The first films of the Keystone Cops showed them on foot or in wagons chasing bad guys.  But the Keystone force became mobile as more cars came into the state.  These slapstick law enforcers helped to further popularize the car and Los Angeles. 
Many of the early silent films were geared for the growing immigrant audiences around the country.  Since they were silent and you could pretty well make out the plot without the reader cards, you didn't need to understand English to enjoy the stories.   They were cheap and accessible.  Like cars. 
The vision of Los Angeles that was seen in these early silents was an open, sunny town.  This proved to be a lure to many who slipped into a theater on a cold day in New York and saw images of bright California skies flickering on the screen. 
Aided by the mobility of the car, Los Angeles started to grow out, not up like New York as the westward migration turned into a stampede.
LA is a late bloomer as far as cities go but this tardy development made it the first major city on earth whose shape was forged by the automobile.  LA's vast stretches of turf were knitted together by the car.
Hollywood's image factories continued to influence the auto world.   As the car became commonplace the cinema's stars wanted something different. 
They turned to specialty builders in Southern California.  All the major stars wanted to have custom cars.

The tradition continued through the Depression as a new raft of stars turned to custom builders like Pasadena's, Bohman and Schwartz to conjure up something unique for them to be seen in.
It didn't take Detroit long to catch on that there was something happening out here.  In 1928, General Motors Chairman sent out a search party to find out why so many Cadillacs were being shipped to one Los Angeles dealer.
The answer was simple.  Harley Earl.  Earl's neighbor, C. B. DeMille had instilled in the young man a sense of showmanship and Harley applied it to his car designs. 
GM had to have him.  They lured Earl back to Detroit and let him start the first auto design studio at a major manufacturer.   This forever changed the auto world. 
Earl instituted the annual design change.  Started to get rid of running boards.  Molded the headlights into the fenders and worked to lower the cars over the frame.  His was a modernist view of design.
To do this, he employed more artists than any enterprise since the Renaissance.  Hundreds of sculptors and painters were charged with turning sheet metal, leather and plastic into dream machines. 
He never left his California custom roots far behind.  Earl is credited with dreaming up the dream cars.  His one-of-a-kind show cars helped to stimulate America's appetite for new cars.
In the 1940's, Earl's auto alchemists had to put down their tools and pick up rifles as they headed to War.  The auto industry ground to a halt.  All new car production was stopped and the factories were converted to become the Arsenal of Democracy.
In California, the car craze was put on the back burner as the boys shipped out.
When the War ended, the returning heroes were itching to turn their savings and pent up desires into new auto realities.
Some couldn't wait for Detroit's factories to retool and decided to build their own.  This group of pioneers also enjoyed to race.  Others heard about their weekly races on California's high deserts lake beds and started to flock to the meets.  The Hot Rod movement took off.
California's Drive-Ins became the headquarters for the movement and the place to go if you wanted to pick up a race or a date.
Street racing became a problem.  The police and the newspapers joined hands to stamp out hot rodders. 

Fearing that their sport and lifestyle were threatened with extinction, California's hot rodders came up with a solution -- drag racing.   It was safe and it got the racers off the streets.  You could even charge for people to watch.  It caught on and spread all over the country.
Hollywood knew a trend when it saw one.  Moviemakers quickly took the hot rodders to heart and started to turn out drive-in movie fodder to lure the young make out artists into the theaters.  Hot cars, squealing tires, and giggling breasts.  It was a formula that worked. 
Detroit finally started to build cars again but many Californians weren't impressed.   The hot rodders thought they were too slow and another group, the sports car lovers, thought they were too cumbersome.
Right after the War, many returning GI's started to lust after mechanical brides --- cute little red MG TC's.  The theory is that they'd driven them while overseas but it's unclear if that's true.  What is certain is that these cars caught on in a big way in Southern California.  They were made to be driven on curvy roads with the top down.  They didn't go too fast but they were fun to drive. 
Jaguar and others saw how MG was pulling in buckets of solid American currency with its MG and decided that they'd also pursue the American market.  Jaguar's stunning XK-120 set hearts racing and upped the sports car ante.
Mercedes quickly rebuilt its War damaged factories.   After showing that it could once again race on the world stage they transformed their racecars into a stunning and fast road car.  The Gullwing Coupe is considered to be one of the most beautiful cars ever built.
Porsche also had its eyes on the US sports car world and its biggest market -- California.  The slippery Porsches were quickly grabbed up by California enthusiasts who found these Teutonic tyros were perfect for a trip up the coast, into the canyons or even to the office.
The winning exploits of Santa Monica's own Phil Hill, showed the world that Americans were more than just consumers.  We needed to be taken seriously on the track.
By the mid-50's some of California's hot rodders had infiltrated Detroit's auto companies and helped the automakers discover ways to make their cars faster.  With the advent of the Chevy V-8  Detroit began to give performance hungry buyers something to cheer about.
Californians flocked to these powerful Detroit Muscle and Pony cars.  T-Birds, Mustangs, GTO's, and Dodge Chargers all found a ready welcome mat in Southern California garages.

But there was a counter culture that rejected both the sleek sports car and the muscle cars.  For an increasing number of buyers the simple, rugged and inexpensive Volkswagen, and the few Japanese cars, represented what a car should be.  Even before the gas shortages they thought about fuel efficiency, quality and durability.  They were laughed at in Detroit but when OPEC shut down the oil pipeline many joined them.
Gas prices shot up and people flocked to the imports.  They discovered that not only were the Japanese cars fuel efficient they were well built.  Something complacent American car companies had ignored for years.
As the imports started to clog California's docks the Japanese companies set up administrative offices near the ports.  Eventually these offices would grow to include design centers and marketing departments that would add millions of dollars to the California economy
The design centers were built because it became clear that their cars were not very exciting and they needed to create cars that the California market would like.
While Detroit continued to dismiss the imports as not much of a threat,  the Japanese, and then the Europeans, began to aggressively recruit from California's Art Center Design program to tap into that unique California sensibility.
An early success story out of this Pacific Rim cultural cross-pollination is the Mazda Miata.  Created by Mark Jordan, the son of a former General Motors chief designer, Jordan set out to design what he thought an MG would look like today.  It reignited the sports car world and led to a slew of wonderful sports cars.  The BMW Z-3, the Porsche Boxster, the Mercedes SLK and a new Jaguar roadster.
The success of these cars helped to reconfirm California's importance in the auto world.  The trends start here and you can't ignore the California mind set.  The Prius caught on here first and both the electric Tesla and Fisker are products of California.  An automaker may survive without a California presence but it's not clear that they will thrive.  While we can't predict the future many feel we'll see it here first.
California is the home to eleven import car companies and design studios for most domestic manufacturers.  Almost every carmaker has a design studio here responsible for turning out cars for the world. 
It's an exciting place to be for a car lover.



Wednesday, October 20, 2010

Witness to War -- Episode Seven


"The problem is, in the world of CNN, the Sadam Husseins
of the future are going to have their television sets
turned on ..."
- General Norman Schwarzkopf

EPISODE SEVEN:
War at "Warp Speed"
Somalia, Bosnia, Kosovo and beyond

            After the victory in the Gulf, the military and the media seemed to have made peace. 

            The "police action" in Somalia began as a friendly media circus.  The reporters, camera crews and technicians stormed ashore long before the troops.  The world watched as they waited with lights on for the triumphant onslaught.

            Anticipation was high.  Coming on the heels of victory in the Gulf, it was widely believed that this conflict could be quickly wrapped up, and the press would record the swift victory. 

            But when images of dead American soldiers being dragged through the streets of Mogadishu reached the States, public support for the campaign disappeared.

            The murderous warlords of Somalia found out that the American public couldn't stomach images of dead U.S. soldiers on TV.  The Marines were ordered home even though they were close to victory.  Some blamed the press for snatching victory out of the military's hands.

            These images from Somalia made American leaders reluctant to engage in Rwanda and Bosnia. 

            But scenes of ethnic cleansing in Bosnia stiffened the resolve of the country.  Satellite photos of mass grave sites brought the horrors home. When it became clear that this might be repeated in Kosovo, a military campaign to save the Kosovars was contemplated.

            Once the air war began, public support soared as the world's television screens were filled with images of suffering refugees.   In Serbia, Russia and China, where scenes of the refugee camps were nonexistent, the public opposed the war.

            The power of the media to influence public policy and form a consensus was never clearer.  But there are problems.

            Today, the internet, cable television and digital home satellite technology gives the public almost immediate access to news and information.  Journalists are forced to step up the pace to feed the information machine.  Fact checking sometimes falls by the wayside as reporters scramble to keep ahead of the information avalanche.  At the same time, military and government leaders use the internet to send information directly into people's homes.

            With the internet, the viewer or reader now sits behind the editor's desk, trolling for news.  As a result, the roles of the professional correspondents and their counterparts in the military are changing.  They're both being forced to satisfy this seemingly insatiable appetite for news. 

            As the information age accelerates, we are left to question how newsgatherers, the military and the public will navigate across this rapidly changing terrain.  Will technology be tamed, information barriers broken and the public interest served?  Or, will truth continue to be the first casualty of war as information moves at "warp speed?"



Witness to War -- Episode Six


"If you let most commanders decide what should be
released to the public, the nightly news would be limited
to reruns of Kate Smith singing 'God Bless America'."
- Drew Middleton, New York Times

EPISODE SIX:
The Media Managers
The Falklands, Grenada and the Gulf 

             Margaret Thatcher learned from the American experience with the media in Vietnam.  

            In 1982, she made the British Navy adopt rules that denied access to neutral correspondents wanting to cover the battle to regain the Falkland Islands. 

            As President Reagan and the Pentagon looked on with admiration, Thatcher allowed only British reporters known to identify with the British cause to accompany the fleet.

            With little notice, the U.S. military took its cue from Thatcher and devised a similar system, so that when the Grenada invasion occurred in 1983, the American press was taken by surprise.

            Grenada marked a clear shift in the U.S. military's relationship with the press.  The majors and generals who felt they had been burned by the media in Vietnam were now in charge of controlling their hostile adversary. 

            The press protested, but the controls worked.  By the time George Bush launched the invasion of Panama in 1989, the Pentagon's media noose was effective and complete.

            Again, the press cried foul, but took what it was given and delivered what the administration wanted: nice, clean, sanitized images of war accompanied by handsome officers in combat gear to explain.

            Panama looked like an Army recruiting film, but the Persian Gulf War was the conflict that the military needed to shake off the Vietnam hangover.

            This time, commanders were determined not to let reporters run rampant in Kuwait and Iraq.  But they could do nothing about a CNN crew in Baghdad.

            As the cruise missiles augured into the city's center and smart bombs brought down bridges and buckled highways, President Bush, Sadam Hussein and the brass held their breath and watched Peter Arnett.  What would the press say?  How would the American public react? 

            Concerns evaporated when the daily press briefings became love-ins with the affable commander, Gen. Norman Schwarzkopf.  The American public loved it: video from the gun cameras of the planes, a smart bombing blowing out of the four walls of a Baghdad communications building and Patriot missiles knocking down SCUD missiles.

            When the War came to a halt after only 100 hours, America celebrated.  Almost every city held a parade for its returning soldiers. 

            It appeared that the military and the media had performed as a team.  But many journalists criticized the Pentagon's control of access to the troops.  They felt that relying solely on the daily showcase of favorable gun-camera films instead of their own first-hand observations affected their ability to adequately cover the war. 

            They vowed never to be shut out again.


Witness to War -- Episode Five


"We became caught between the traditional definitions of loyalty, patriotism, salute the flag and a higher definition, it seemed to me, of democracy, the need to tell the truth."
- David Halberstam

EPISODE FIVE:
The Changing of the Guard
The Cold War and Vietnam

            After a brief period of no press censorship, the situation became much the same in Korea as it had been in World War II. 

            When censorship was imposed, reporters grumbled about the restrictions and the military countered with complaints about purported bias.  But overall there was a sense of trust and unity of purpose. 

            It all came unraveled in Vietnam in the 1960's.

            Vietnam would be the most thoroughly covered War in history.  The reporting came at a time of national soul searching about the American way of life.  By the time the United States signed a peace agreement in 1973, the spirit of the nation had changed.  The confident, buoyant innocence that had marked the country since the end of World War II was gone and had been replaced by cynicism and distrust. 

            In 1962, when Peter Arnett first got to Vietnam there were only seven or eight reporters in the country.  The small band of correspondents began to see failure written all over the face of the war even before it escalated.

            The new breed of reporters felt they couldn't trust the official reports handed out in Saigon and began to rely almost exclusively on their own eyes and the experiences of the troops in the field. 

            An adversarial relationship quickly developed between the military, which had the support of the older generation of correspondents, and the young turks of the press.
                       
            As the war grew, so did the corps from television and newspapers -- there were soon 400 reporters in Vietnam -- and with them came increased criticism, to the consternation of Washington and the White House. 

            Lyndon Johnson believed they had been taken in by communist propaganda.  Television was particularly upsetting.  Vietnam was the first war seen on television.  Network news producers in New York demanded action, so the correspondents sent back graphic films of battles and wounded soldiers.

            Young people took to the streets in protest, clashing with police.  Four students were killed by National Guard troops during an anti-war protest at Kent State University in Ohio. 

            To counteract a tide of negative stories from Vietnam, the administration applied pressure on the Washington Press Corps.   To a large extent, the Capital Hill press bought the administration's line on Vietnam. 

            While the field reporters weren't supported by their counterparts in Washington their critical stories and attitudes were noticed by the Pentagon.  Reporters were seen as the enemy.

            Finally, in April, 1975, the last American helicopter pulled away from the roof of the U.S. Embassy in Saigon and the war ended.

            But the sting and divisions left by Vietnam remained for a generation.

            To many in the military, the media lost Vietnam. 

            They believed that most correspondents were biased and inaccurate and stressed defeats to erode public support. 

            Scarred by Vietnam, the Pentagon vowed that this would never happen again.  They began to take steps to limit the correspondents' freedom to write and film at will. 

           

Witness to War -- Episode Four


"In this nation of ours, the final political decisions rest with the people.  And the people, so that they may make up their minds, must be given the facts, even in time of war, or perhaps especially in time of war."
- Paul Scott Mowrer, Editor, Chicago Daily News

EPISODE FOUR:
The Certainty of Evil 
World War II 

            When Hitler came to power in 1933, his 36-year-old Minister of Popular Enlightenment and Propaganda, Joseph Goebbels, swiftly brought all media -- including writers, actors, filmmakers and publishers -- under his control.  

            One star to emerge from this Nazi structure was Leni Riefenstahl, a favorite of Hitler because of her German mountain films, a genre equivalent to the American western.

            Riefenstahl was selected to direct Hitler's pet project, a film of the gigantic 1934 Nazi Rally.  She was given a staff of 120 people and 30 cameras.  Special elevators were built to whisk a cameraman up 120 feet for panoramic sweeps of the torch-lit parade.

            The result was the epic and chilling propaganda film "Triumph of the Will."

            In 1936, two years after "Triumph of the Will," Spain erupted into civil war.  Franco's nationalists, with the assistance of Hitler and Mussolini, turned the conflict into a testing ground for German and Italian hardware and doctrine.

            Spain became the siren from which the press sounded warnings about the emerging fascists.

            Among those covering the Spanish Civil War were Ernest Hemingway, George Orwell, Arthur Koestler, Andre Malraux and John Dos Passos -- some of the world's finest writers.
                        
            What the correspondents saw in Spain, followed by Germany's lightening strikes across Europe, showed what a brutal and determined enemy it would be.

            Some reporters rode along with the Germans.  William Shirer of CBS Radio broadcast a live report back to the States as Hitler and Goering dictated the terms of the Armistice to the French.

            By 1940, Great Britain was facing Germany alone as Roosevelt raced to build a suitable arsenal and bring the U.S. into the war in 1941.

            Meanwhile, war correspondents like Edward R. Murrow reported from London's rooftops as the German Luftwaffe set the city ablaze.

            The overwhelming odds against Britain and the unquestioned evidence of Hitler's evil created an incubator for a mutual alliance between the press and governments.  News copy was submitted to censors without much fuss.  While Churchill privately described the British evacuation at Dunkirk as a "colossal military disaster," compliant reporters turned it into triumph under headlines that screamed, "Bloody Marvelous."

            The US. entered World War II, which became what Studs Turkel called "The Good War."  Good triumphed over evil, and the press willingly played its part.

            But the World War II war correspondents were destined to clash with a new generation in a place called Vietnam.

Witness to War -- Episode Three

 "The last war was the most colossal, murderous, mismanaged butchery that has ever taken place on earth.  Any writer who said otherwise lied."

- Ernest Hemingway

EPISODE THREE:
The Price of Silence
World War I

            By the time the First World War rolled around in 1914, the military had realized that one way of imposing censorship was to absorb the correspondents into the military machine.

            The result was effective, but led to a disastrous silence.

            Only six British correspondents were allowed at the front during the World War I.  They wore uniforms and were given the rank of Captain, provided servants and guides and lived with the General Staff.

            The British needed the support of a queasy public unsure about the war, so they developed a propaganda machine so successful that it later served as the model for Joseph Goebbels, Hitler's propaganda minister.

            The British first dehumanized the Germans by calling them Huns and planting false stories about murders and mutilations of children.  British newspaper editors became willing allies in this deceit. 

            When America entered the War, the British and the French convinced General Pershing to use the censorship system.  The result was a totally controlled press.

            Even the famous Richard Harding Davis, whose yearly earnings of over $32,000 made him the highest paid correspondent in the world, couldn't buck the censors.  After a year of waiting to visit the front, he went home.

            Because of this rigorous censorship and sanitized reporting, it remains impossible to determine the real number of casualties in World War I.

            Most believe that the French lost about half a million men in the first four months of the war and over 5 million by 1918.

            The Allies lost over 600,000 men in one battle, the Somme, and more British officers died in the first few months than in all wars of the previous 100 years.

            The Germans faked their casualty figures, too.  By the best estimates, at Verdun alone 325,000 Germans were killed or wounded.  They stopped counting after that.

            Ernest Hemingway summed it all up: "The writers either wrote propaganda, shut up or went home."

            Keith Murdoch, the father of media mogul Rupert Murdoch, proved to be one of a very few correspondents willing to challenge the censors' grip.

            He arrived at Gallipoli to cover the British attempt to capture
Constantinople and knock Turkey out of the War. He soon found out that General Ian Hamilton, the commander, had bungled the mission.

            When Murdoch smuggled his report out of the country, Hamilton wired ahead to have him arrested at Marseilles. Murdoch was jailed and his dispatch was confiscated.  After his two day incarceration,  he went to London and dictated a story from memory.

            Hamilton was relieved of his command and the troops were evacuated from Gallipoli.

            Historians believe that the censored reporting of World War I helped perpetuate accounts of tragic mass slaughter.

            The German public was equally ill served by its own press. German readers were told that their armies hadn't been defeated in the field,  but were tricked by the Russian Communists and the Jews.

            Thus, a silenced press helped Hitler use these charges to justify his quest for power.